“Lightness. Softness. Quality. A conversation between the masculine and the feminine.” This is what a dapper Brunello Cucinelli had to say about his latest collection as he got ready for the coveted luncheon given today by Italy’s Prime Minister Matteo Renzi to kick off Milan Fashion Week. Cucinelli pointed out a lineup abundant with unlined coats and malleable jackets impeccably made from the most luxurious fabrics, which at times felt almost weightless. Alpacas, mohairs, brushed wools, cashmere fleeces, flannels, velours, bouclés: It read like a catalogue of the finest offerings from Italy’s best mills. The cornucopia of textures was turned into modern, unfussy, practical shapes for daywear looks with a slight retro edge.
A touch of dandy elegance gave the assemblage a charming flair; pieces were layered with an easy, confident nonchalance. Masculine touches were apparent in the medley of fabrics and patterns borrowed from classical menswear tailoring (the focus was on a zillion variations of trousers), which constitute a sort of wardrobe foundation in Cucinelli’s parlance. They were pleated at the waist and cropped or slim and tapered; of exaggerated, skirtlike volume or sportswear-inspired; slouchy and drop-crotched or wrapped and draped—there were enough styles to suit an encyclopedia of possible tastes, styling requirements, and body shapes. Worn with coats of generous proportions, the trousers made for a new take on relaxed suiting. Crisp poplin shirts adorned with ribbons and bows at the collar had a Byron-esque flavor; textured sweaters knitted from the thinnest yarns were a smart option for the unpredictable temperatures of contemporary winter, and the corresponding need for layering. It all looked pretty cool, and the luxe edge was there in full force, too."
--- Vogue's review of the collection